On the shores of Lake Batur, in the heart of Bali, Trunyan preserves a unique ancestral funeral tradition found nowhere else in the world. Accessible only by boat, this secluded village maintains the ancient customs of the Bali Aga, Bali’s Indigenous people. Here, the dead are neither cremated nor buried but left exposed to the open air. This centuries-old ritual, supported by the presence of a sacred tree with purifying properties, invites us to rethink our relationship with life, death, and nature.
Article and photographs by Damien Lafon
Trunyan: an ancient tradition protected by isolation
At the foot of Mount Abang lies a singular village: Trunyan. Nestled inside a volcanic caldera in central Bali, the village actively preserves some of the island’s oldest traditions. Its inhabitants, known as Bali Aga or Bali Mula, trace their lineage directly back to Bali’s earliest settlers long before Hinduism arrived. In Trunyan, people do not cremate or bury their dead. Instead, they lay bodies out in the open. Strangely, no odor fills the air. A sacred tree guards the site. As a result, this world seems frozen in time.
The Mepasah Rite: A Unique Funeral Practice
Today, thanks to its isolation, Trunyan retains its ancestral lifestyle. The village can only be reached by boat, which helps protect it from outside influence. Unlike much of Bali, shaped by Hindu customs, Trunyan continues practices from an earlier era. Villagers build homes from bamboo and wood. They pass down religious rites orally and live according to natural cycles. This deep respect for life extends to their funeral customs. In a sacred forest clearing, families lay the deceased on the ground, wrapped in cloth and sheltered by a bamboo cage. Without burial or cremation, bodies decompose in the open. Yet the air remains remarkably clean.
Taru Menyan: Sacred Tree, Natural Purifier
This unusual phenomenon centers around a key element: the Taru Menyan tree. Its name means “fragrant tree,” and it grows beside the cemetery, releasing a powerful scent that neutralizes decomposition. Thanks to this tree, the villagers have carried out the mepasah rite for generations. In fact, the name Trunyan comes directly from Taru Menyan.
Did you know?
The Taru Menyan tree produces a fragrant resin that masks the smell of decaying bodies.
This natural property makes the open-air funeral practice possible.
A Society Structured by Rituals and Castes
For the Bali Aga, death is part of life’s natural cycle not a rupture to be feared but a return to nature. Only married villagers may receive the mepasah rite. In contrast, unmarried individuals or those who die tragically are buried or cremated. Fire, considered destructive, is used only in certain contexts. The village’s social structure follows a traditional caste system: the banjar jero, descendants of former chiefs, and the banjar jaba, descendants of commoners. Both groups have specific roles in ceremonies and religious practices.
Brutuk: The Silent Dance of the Spirits
Each year, Trunyan also holds the Brutuk ritual in honor of Bhatara Da Tonta, a local deity associated with Mount Batur. During the festival, unmarried men who have undergone spiritual purification perform masked dances dressed in dried banana leaves. No music accompanies them only silence. Through movement alone, they communicate with invisible forces. The ritual strengthens the sacred bond between the human and spiritual realms.
Trunyan Today: Between Curiosity and Reverence
In recent years, Trunyan has drawn the attention of curious travelers. The village’s unusual funerary customs fascinate many. However, some guides exploit this interest, prompting local concerns. Trunyan is not a tourist attraction. Taking photos of the dead without permission is deeply disrespectful and spiritually disruptive. Visitors must show reverence. From the village of Kedisan, they reach Trunyan by motorized canoe. Once there, they should remain discreet, dress modestly, and follow local guidance. Such respect is essential to preserve the village’s sacred balance.
Did you know?
Brutuk is exclusive to Trunyan and performed without music. The dancers move in silence, guided by the spirits.
Ultimately, Trunyan offers a different view of death. Here, the body remains visible. It slowly returns to the earth. This tradition encourages us to rethink how we grieve, remember, and live. It reminds us that death is not an end but a transformation. In a world increasingly disconnected from nature, Trunyan quietly teaches continuity. It reflects a timeless link between humanity, the earth, and the rhythm of life.
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