In East Java, the Ijen volcano draws hikers, scientists, and curious travelers every night to witness a rare phenomenon: blue flames rising from an acidic crater. But behind this stunning image lies a much more complex reality one of hard labor, toxic fumes, and a fragile balance between tourism and local survival.
Article by Damien Lafon – Photography by Quentin Tournier
Ijen: A Volcano Under Watch
In the heart of East Java, near the Banyuwangi region, dozens of people climb the slopes of Mount Ijen each night. They come to witness a unique site: a bright blue crater, filled with an acidic lake, from which strange blue flames occasionally burst. But how much do we really know about this place where mineral beauty meets human hardship?
What Lies Beneath the Blue Crater?
The crater lake of Kawah Ijen sits at an altitude of 2,386 meters in eastern Java. It is known as one of the most acidic lakes on Earth. Scientific measurements have recorded extremely low pH levels sometimes below 0.3. That’s more acidic than battery acid, which typically has a pH of around 0.5.
Are the Flames Dangerous?
Yes. The sight is spectacular, but conditions are harsh. The burning gas can reach temperatures of up to 600°C. Hikers begin their ascent around 1 a.m. to arrive in time. Gas masks are essential. Without them, the acidic vapors irritate the eyes, throat, and lungs. Still, every night, groups venture close to the crater at their own risk.
Did you know?
The blue flame phenomenon can only be seen in three places on Earth: Indonesia, Ethiopia, and Iceland.
Who Descends into the Crater Daily?
Not the tourists but sulfur miners. These men manually extract solidified yellow sulfur blocks, then carry loads of 60 to 90 kg on their backs. They walk several kilometers to reach the collection point. For their efforts, they earn only a few euros. Many work without proper protection, despite constant exposure to toxic gases. Their daily rhythm is set by the smoke and the stone.
Why Do They Do It?
Because they often have no choice. In nearby villages, sulfur mining is a generational trade. Despite the toxic fumes and dangers, the volcano offers more financial stability than the few other opportunities available. Miners earn around 1,000 rupiah per kilo—less than 10 euro cents. Each haul brings in the equivalent of 5 to 10 euros a day. Some see this labor as a dignified profession. Others hope to leave. But all agree: Kawah Ijen provides—but at a cost.
Is Tourism Changing Ijen?
Yes and rapidly. In recent years, hiking Mount Ijen has become increasingly popular. This shift affects local dynamics. Trails light up with hikers’ headlamps, and waste accumulates. The influx of visitors sometimes disrupts the miners’ work. Some guides are now calling for better regulations. Meanwhile, the park is considering limiting nighttime access.
Did you know?
Sulfur extracted from Ijen is used in pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, and even for whitening sugar.
What About the Environmental Impact?
The volcano has always shaped its surrounding lands, with its ashes enriching the soil. But human activity has disrupted this balance. Acidic fumes, carried by the wind, damage nearby forests. Plastic waste and trash leave their mark. The crater lake itself remains sterile nothing survives in its acidic waters.
Are There Local Initiatives?
Yes. Some seek to protect and highlight the site without depleting it. Training programs help guides improve safety and environmental awareness. NGOs provide miners with gas masks. A few tourism projects involve local communities. Still, these efforts remain fragile and need lasting support to succeed.
When to Visit Ijen?
The dry season, from May to October, offers the best conditions. Skies are clear and trails manageable. During the rainy season, the path becomes slippery, and visibility drops. It’s best to check local conditions before planning a trip.
What Stays with You After a Visit?
Ijen is a place of contrasts. It captivates but also raises questions. Its crater reveals a raw beauty crossed by men living in hardship. The blue flames attract, but they mask a story often unseen. This site reminds us that behind every spectacular image, there’s a human reality frequently overlooked.
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