In the province of Xieng Khouang, in northern Laos, lies a place unlike any other. Scattered across multiple sites, thousands of stone jars intrigue both researchers and travelers. Known as the Plain of Jars, this vast archaeological landscape blends ancient mystery with a legacy of memory. It is one of the most iconic and symbolic places in the country.
By Damien Lafon, in collaboration with Sandrine Blondeau, co-founder of Laos Autrement
Plain of Jars: An Archaeological Site of Mysterious Origins
Shrouded in mist, the highlands of Xieng Khouang reveal giant stone jars emerging from the earth like remnants of another world. Some rise up to two meters high. Others are cracked, broken, yet still standing. More than 2,000 jars have been documented across nearly 90 sites.
Their origin remains a topic of debate. According to prevailing theories, these jars were used for funerary rituals between 500 BCE and 500 CE. Human remains, beads, and tools found nearby support this hypothesis. However, no consensus has yet been reached. Alternative theories suggest the jars may have been used to store rice wine or collect rainwater.
Laotian and international archaeologists continue to investigate. In 2019, UNESCO listed the Plain of Jars as a World Heritage Site, recognizing its cultural value and complex history. This international status contributes to its ongoing preservation.
A Land Scarred by the Secret War
Between the ancient stones, the land still bears visible scars. From 1964 to 1973, Laos became without any formal declaration of war one of the most heavily bombed countries in the world. In the shadow of the Vietnam War, the United States launched a covert operation known as the Secret War, targeting the Pathet Lao and North Vietnamese forces.
Over nine years, more than two million tons of bombs were dropped on Laos. In the south, U.S. forces sought to disrupt the Ho Chi Minh Trail, a vital supply route used by North Vietnamese troops. In the north, military operations focused on Xieng Khouang province strategically positioned near key valleys leading to Luang Prabang, the royal capital, and Vientiane, the Laotian government seat.
The result: a devastated landscape. An estimated 30% of the bombs failed to detonate. These unexploded ordnances (UXO) continue to pose a serious threat to local communities and hinder the region’s long-term development.
As Sandrine Blondeau of Laos Autrement, a responsible travel agency, explains:
“It’s essential to follow your guide’s instructions and stay within cleared areas. Not all sites are open to the public, but the ones that are accessible are safe for travelers.”
Organizations such as MAG (Mines Advisory Group) carry out crucial demining work, training Laotians in these difficult tasks and helping make more areas safe each year.
Did you know?
The main site, Thong Hai Hin, literally means “the plain of stone jars.” Some weigh over six tonnes.
Between Heritage Protection, Tourism, and Living Memory
Despite ongoing risks, the region is slowly recovering. Thanks to joint efforts from local authorities and NGOs, responsible tourism is emerging. The aim is to protect the sites while creating long-term benefits for local communities.
Tours are designed to raise awareness. They include visits to historic sites and meetings with local people.
“Our approach is grounded in respect for the land and its people. We favor small groups, listening, and sharing,” says Sandrine Blondeau.
Today, local residents openly share their memories of war: years spent hiding in caves, personal losses, and survival stories. These moving testimonies can be discovered at the Provincial Museum of Phonsavanh or through exhibits by MAG, UXO Laos, and COPE in Vientiane.
Such stories allow the region to move forward by preserving memory not remaining frozen in the past.
A Legacy to Pass On
New generations continue to share legends surrounding the jars. Some say they were carved by giants; others tell of a great king who used them to store lao-lao a local rice whisky as a reward for victorious warriors. These oral traditions add a poetic layer to the site’s enigmatic charm.
In schools, teachers supported by NGOs educate children on the dangers of UXO, especially when encountering metal objects while playing. It’s also an opportunity to share the region’s past.
In Ban Napia, often called the village of the bombs, families have turned part of this dangerous legacy into a livelihood. They collect aluminum from exploded bomb fragments and repurpose it into household tools and handcrafted souvenirs. It’s a powerful example of how memory and development can coexist.
Visiting the Plain of Jars Today: Practical Tips
Visiting the Plain of Jars is a unique experience. But to fully grasp its richness and complexity, it’s best to be accompanied by a knowledgeable guide. Choosing a local agency like Laos Autrement ensures both safety and deeper understanding. Local guides offer life stories and insights not found in guidebooks.
Road access from Luang Prabang or Vientiane can be challenging, but the town of Phonsavanh now has a modernized airport with regular flights from Vientiane. A planned express road between Vientiane and Hanoi will soon improve access, comfort, and connectivity to the region.
Each site has distinct features size, number, layout, surrounding landscape. The three sites closest to Phonsavanh are the most frequently visited. One more remote site is accessible only by trekking with a specialized guide.
Visitors are strongly advised to stay on marked paths and in clearly designated safe zones, especially in rural areas. By following these basic precautions, you can safely enjoy the beauty and cultural richness of Laos. Local guides are deeply familiar with their land and are your best allies for a meaningful visit.
Did you know?
Each year, nearly 100 new accidents occur due to unexploded ordnances in Laos half of them involving children.
Conclusion
The Plain of Jars reflects the essence of Laos: a land of legends, shaped by history, and driven by resilience. Caught between archaeological mystery and collective memory, it invites visitors to slow down, listen, and reflect.
Visiting this region also supports responsible tourism that uplifts local communities. It offers a chance to discover a little-known history, fostering awareness while contributing to a more hopeful future.
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